I discover the real French flea market at Puces de Vanves. I find a lovely Nouveau print of Eve and the serpent by Lucien Levy-Dhurmer, two Victorian theater hats (a velvet beret with moon and stars and a tri-corner with an ostrich plume), a set of antique Tarot cards, and tiny esspresso cups with geishas [...]
We went to Notre Dame and I lit a candle for Jim and Xie.
I cried by the Seine, thinking how hokey it is to light a candle at Notre Dame and then cry by the Seine and how much I would have liked to tell Jim. I lit it under the statue of Joan of [...]
Today we visited Père-Lachaise Cemetery. It was established by Napoleon in 1804, breaking the (health-hazard) ban on inner-city cemeteries imposed in 1786.
At the time of its opening, the cemetery was too far from the city proper and attracted few funerals. The administrators devised a marketing strategy and with great fanfare organized the transfer of the [...]
I woke before dawn, made cafe, and after writing, researched things to do in Paris. I made a list and then Ali and I headed for “our cafe” from our last visit for late late (a theme?) brunch.
Then to the Jardin des Tuilieres, since neither of us have been. It was suddenly 80 degrees [...]
I believe sleeping twelve hours and getting up at two constitutes vacance.
Ali woke to an omelet and a salad of strawberries, orange, and mint (pilfered from last nights Vietnamese). I love any excuse to snarf the butter here, which is unfathomably delish and nothing like home.
We hightailed it to the south east edge of town, [...]
Today we went to the Centre Pompidou and saw a rather silly but entertaining show on Beckett.
I wasn’t really in the mood for museums, this trip is all about exploring, on foot, metro, foot again. My calf muscles are beyond aching, but this is what makes me happy these days. The French women who do [...]
Walking down the Boulevard Clichy (where the Moulin Rouge still twirls it’s windmill and ghosts of absinthe, can-can, and Mistinguett, haunt daft, thrill-seeking tourists who titter at the giant neon sign SEXY) this: a man asleep on the bench, passed out drunk. In lieu of a 40 ouncer? Bottle of champagne. My kinda town.
Later as [...]
We had incredible weather today, this must be why Billie Holiday sings about April in Paris. A revelation to wear a frilly skirt after all the days of snow boots. And Lilac seaon! (these are not Lilac, but smell lovely…)
After twelve hours sleep (brutal red-eye flight, neva-eva again!) we walked all day. Gargoyle tits and [...]
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The first chunk of A Love Supreme comes through the tinny car speaker. I lean back and let it slide over me. We are driving upstate for an Easter egg hunt and brunch, to hangout with Germans, fags, dogs and the women who love them.
Ali has been teasing me all weekend about being a [...]