~aventures du louchette flâneurse: 22ème~

December 7th, 2009

Chez Louisette, at the Vernaison nook of le marché aux puces de Saint-Ouen: keyboards, accordion and Edith Piaf covers belted out by the charming Manuela, who has made this homage in this guinguette her life’s work. Not unlike seeing Marty & Elaine at some point in their twenty-seven year gig at the Dresden Room. Twenty years ago, Marty said to my friend Michelle and me, “I just have one question for these lovely young ladies: Wouldn’t you like to fly in my beautiful balloon?”

For you flea fans, rumor has it that this is The Original, born from the rag-and-bone men or pêcheurs de lune (moon fishermen) that once combed the city’s refuse for treasures by night, and sold the same on blankets at the edges of Paris by day. It became a proper flea in 1885 and currently extends over six hectares (about 15 acres).

More an experience than a shopping excursion (prices reflect that dealers have proper shops, and thus need not bargain), the puces seems utterly unaffected by ebay culture and remains a world unto it’s own. My, my, a dealer said of a paper lantern (circa 1920s), to explain her demand of 20€, “It is very old.” I thought moving to a continent whose history spans centuries would promise no such claim regarding items made in my grandmother’s lifetime. The market itself is older! Padam, Padam!