January 3rd, 2010
We spent the afternoon on rue Montorgueil, the oldest market street in Paris. Elements of a salad Niçoise were purchased, as well as yet more foie gras (Alfonso is anticipating our departure, it seems), and another small Galette des Rois. Delicious cake (puff pastry and frangipane) with a surprise inside (une fève), what could be better? The first concealed a tiny ceramic baker man, a sort of strange simulacra (not to get all Baudrillard on you). Perhaps tonight’s cake will have a tiny cake inside, or a tiny Alfonso & Kim.*
Above and below, the Patisserie Stohrer has been open since 1730 in this same location. The murals (scantily-clad ladies and pastry, that’s what’s better that trinkets and pastry!) are from the 1860s, and painted by Paul Baudry, who also painted the grand foyer of the Opera de Paris.




Above is the sign for L’Escargot Montorgueil, opened 1832 and a favorite of both Proust and Sarah Berhardt, some of whose household furnishings can be found decorating the interior. We hoofed three miles up to Montmartre for yet another research to-do (post tomorrow), and succeeded in reminding Alfonso how much he loves the neighborhood. Below is a photo of the man at his most coveted metro station with the crazy spiral staircase, on Rue Caulaincourt.

* our cake had no surprise! whatever can it mean?!