New Years Eve! A Blue Moon! Le Réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre (New Years Eve feast) at Bistrot Paul Bert! A relatively quiet and very tasty evening of foie gras (Alfonso), truffles (Kim), and a splendid wine from Languedoc-Roussillon (Côtes Catalanes) winery Le Petite Baigneuse, Grand Largue.
Then the fire brigade, who have a station just down [...]
A pair of thirsty kids break up the workday with lunch at the always lovely Le Baratin. We had wanted to try the co-owner’s new Le Chapeau Melon, but food poisoning caused us to cancel our reservation Saturday, and Sunday the same caused the chef to cancel on us. Tant pis! They will remain closed [...]
A very extravagant Christmas Eve spent on the Rive Gauche at La Coupole, a brasserie that opened in Montparnasse in 1927. The mood was lovely, humming and old-school. A birthday was righteously celebrated with singing and sparklers, our waiter took my camera and photographed the entire restaurant for us, and when someone dropped a large [...]
For the child in us all, I offer pictures from the Art Deco Le Clown Bar (opened 1902), at once charming and creepy, with a superb wine list, and next door to Napoloeon’s Cirque d’Hiver (Winter Circus). Joyeux Noël!
Christmas in Paris means Brasserie week for us, starting tonight with Bofinger. Our friend Christian–who read a bit of Faust at our wedding (Germany represent!)–is in town to share the holidays, and for Christmas eve, we will go to La Coupole, and I hope also to visit Julien.
Bofinger, an Alsatian joint, was opened in 1864 [...]
“It’s not simply the terrible coffee that keeps me opposed to Starbucks,” I might say, world-wearily. “It’s the aggressive homogenization of the urban spaces of the world, by now a familiar, lamentable story. Oh Gap, oh Benetton!” And so forth.
Kindly imagine my horror when upon arriving at an address–a home I hoped to find intact [...]
I paced the flat waving my arms in front of me like a crazy Italian, saying, “Oh. My. Goodness.” That’s what butter of French cream speckled with flakes of sea salt that crunch when you greedily snarf it makes me say. To myself. Which after a month alone (save one delightful visit) I will admit [...]
The website says “Click the right spot and magic raccoons appear.” Marché d’Aligre, one of Paris’ most famous markets, is made up of the well-heeled, covered Marché Beauvau (since 1777) and the more democratic outdoor expanse that includes both produce hawked by shouting Algerians (un euro un euro un euro!) and a true flea market [...]
Ladies and gents, I give you, Belleville (from Ⓜ Pyrenées all the way down rue du Faubourg du Temple)! I was loitering, waiting for Krung Thep to open for early dinner, (which was well worth the wait, tho the 10€ price tag on a cuplette of Tom Kha Gai is smiling robbery, no matter how [...]
Our local baker painting new signage regarding today’s formule (fixed lunch menu) and no doubt about to prompt a “He’s dead!” from my honey, but really, he’s no scoundrel–he offered to paint the noses of the local grandmas as they stopped to chatter, not mine. Vraiment. Non, sérieusement! Meanwhile a true cause of concern: utter [...]