curi·ous {Old French curios} Drawn to investigate, prick up the ears, ponder for the sake of pondering. Enticed by mysteriously labeled bottles.
vo·luptu·ary {Late Latin volupturius} A lass devoted to the pursuit of pleasure. An unabashed epicurean, hedonist, libertine, sensualist, lotus-eater.
We do a lot of driving on these trips. I’ve learned to do much from a moving vehicle–edit manuscripts, serve thoughtfully prepared snacks, take in the view, photograph it at 120kph. I’ve even overcome my sad public school grasp of European geography. It is different when you are…There. I often feel like a dog with [...]
We traveled to many villages and towns in Provence and the Luberon Valley–there was Avignon, home of Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes), called by poet Petrarch the “most foul and stinking city on Earth” (its not, but it sure is touristy!), and where we saw a couple waltzing in the morning sunlight on [...]
I have been reading several travel and food writers lately, for pleasure, but also with a secret fantasy of being one I think. A. J. Liebling’s Between Meals, Brillat-Savarin’s The Physiology of Taste, M.F.K. Fisher’s Two Towns in Provence, and Sybille Bedford’s Pleasures and Landscapes are all on my night table at the moment.
we stayed [...]
Our treasure lies in the beehive of our knowledge. We are perpetually on the way thither, being by nature winged insects and honey gatherers of the mind. Guess who said that? Hmm…I wonder.
My day began with the birds and the ocean, in the dark, around six or so I spose (no clock, heaven!).
We had a [...]
Perhaps I was too glib when the ostrich bit me. In retrospect it seems a harbinger of much that was to follow.
This weekend we explored the Loue Valley, following along the winding Doubs river that runs from Switzerland to France. The Loue river was discovered to be a tributary of the Doubs when in 1901 [...]
I discover the real French flea market at Puces de Vanves. I find a lovely Nouveau print of Eve and the serpent by Lucien Levy-Dhurmer, two Victorian theater hats (a velvet beret with moon and stars and a tri-corner with an ostrich plume), a set of antique Tarot cards, and tiny esspresso cups with geishas [...]
We went to Notre Dame and I lit a candle for Jim and Xie.
I cried by the Seine, thinking how hokey it is to light a candle at Notre Dame and then cry by the Seine and how much I would have liked to tell Jim. I lit it under the statue of Joan of [...]
Today we visited Père-Lachaise Cemetery. It was established by Napoleon in 1804, breaking the (health-hazard) ban on inner-city cemeteries imposed in 1786.
At the time of its opening, the cemetery was too far from the city proper and attracted few funerals. The administrators devised a marketing strategy and with great fanfare organized the transfer of the [...]
I woke before dawn, made cafe, and after writing, researched things to do in Paris. I made a list and then Ali and I headed for “our cafe” from our last visit for late late (a theme?) brunch.
Then to the Jardin des Tuilieres, since neither of us have been. It was suddenly 80 degrees [...]
I believe sleeping twelve hours and getting up at two constitutes vacance.
Ali woke to an omelet and a salad of strawberries, orange, and mint (pilfered from last nights Vietnamese). I love any excuse to snarf the butter here, which is unfathomably delish and nothing like home.
We hightailed it to the south east edge of town, [...]