~j’ai deux amours~

April 25th, 2007

I woke before dawn, made cafe, and after writing, researched things to do in Paris. I made a list and then Ali and I headed for “our cafe” from our last visit for late late (a theme?) brunch.


Then to the Jardin des Tuilieres, since neither of us have been. It was suddenly 80 degrees F, and the tourists were in full effect. We walked to the four (!) apartments of the Countess de Castiglione within a ten block area and then got the heck out of there. So much for tourist gardens…and more on courtesans tomorrow perhaps. A horrible poster of a Josephine Baker impersonator haunts every metro with neon bananas and well, isn’t that enough? No? Okay there is one for Mr. T too.

We were wilting badly and I had a flash (from said list)–lets go sit in the cool of La Pagode and watch a movie! C’est parfait!

And it was–so restorative to visit such a magical place still standing (just when you were bumming about the proliferation of faux Josephines and global warming) and also to see (in french) Anne M.–a film about a young woman suffering from malais romantique.



La Pagode dates back to the 19th century when it was bought, deconstructed, and brought back to France by Mr Morin, a director of Bon Marché, to give to his wife as a present. Rebuilt exactly as it had been, in the gardens of a townhouse, it first opened as a ballroom, before becoming a cinema in 1931.


The gals taking tickets discussed the with a patron how one says “the” plural en Anglais the way le, la, and les are used en Français. The patron said, “The flowers, like The Beatles or The Rolling Stones.” I suggested The Stones. (Man! says Hollywood cat!)

We then wandered to the shop Marie-Anne Cantin, a “vigorous defender of unpasteurised cheese” and bought samples for tomorrows breakfast. More to follow.


Finally, dinner at Le Baratin, so good it should be illegal. My artichoke salad was not of this earth and the boho ancient couple seated next to us–she with jaunty hat and big silver rings and he with velvet coat and wild beard–made me very happy. We are seriously considering going back in the days that remain.


Tonight the wind on our hill is wild. Mint tea in tiny pyramid-shaped tea bags and all the windows swing back and forth…

One Response to “~j’ai deux amours~”

  1. […] spot to date, Le Baratin, spearheaded the Bistornomic movement a few years back, and since we discovered it and fell in love, the trends have spread. Thus, armed with Le Fooding website, I am on a mission […]

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