~dandy in the underworld~

August 4th, 2008

Ali flâneur-ing outside Gunter’s atelier.

Beyond the general city-dwelling and snacking, we also enjoyed days delving into the world of European haberdashery. The quest? An ensemble for Monseigneur Rutigliano to marry in. He’s no Beau Brummell, but my man is quiet the dandy in his own way, which made this task a real–though delightful–challenge.

Part of the fun of being with a euro-poodle (or mine, anyway) is his deep connection to his Anima, as displayed in various ways–from howling with Marc Bolan all along the Autobahn, or flâneur-ing along the streets of Berlin searching for the perfect (piggy?) cuff links. (One assumes it’s his ID that fuels the impressive ad-lib Tom Waits and Satchmo songs…) The man does not do khaki, but rather velvet, and for this I am forever grateful.

A shoe shop that did not cut the mustard with Alfonso, but apparently did with the pope.

Over several long and sleuthish days (given Champagne taste and well, slightly lesser but still dry and quite drinkable, budget), we found handmade boots from this charming man, a well-tailored suit at legendary KaDeWe, and commissioned an incredible wine-colored surreal top hat (called Médoc, after the region in France) from our friend Gunter, all for our “special day” (which will be in fact three days…).

A tuckered out Ali attempts some C.E.O. humor in the very dark brown pin-striped suit we chose.

The best part of Berlin however, was seeing so many beloved people. Alfonso’s Berliner friends–many of them mine too now–are such a fine cluster of artists and freakies. We’ve been pining for company in buttoned-up Suisse, and this was an excellent fix. Our days were completely packed with lunches and dinners and evening festivities too raucous to report here!


These lovely days were followed by two in Cologne with our friend Christian (one night until 5am, baby!) that reminded that the kids still got it, at least in small doses! A few legal shots from Cologne below…

Near Bonn, we lunched at this old train station with the lovely view of the Rhine. It is part of the Hans Arp Museum.click on image to expand


Details of Köln Cathedral, which at 7000 square meters has the largest facade of any church in the world. Below, the train station next to it.



Alfons about half way through said 5 am night…


Then the kids fled to autonomous Amsterdam for “a rest”…

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