~castelnuovo della daunia~

April 26th, 2011


We had a few days of (relative) rest in the midst of our race, in Castelnuovo della Daunia (Foggia, Apulia), in the family town of my honey.  Here meals have a three-course minimum (including, yet not limited to: octopus salad, handmade pasta, grilled fish, cheese plates, tiramisu, dusty red wine, family-made walnut liqueur, espresso, basta!).


We survived a freak storm that covered the normally hot, dry region with rain and a dense, eerie fog that hung for a week, rendering carefully packed sunhats and espadrilles useless.


The local men gathered at dusk (buona sera!) to discuss world events (allora! capice?) and watch the swifts swoop between the three bars (family favorite Giovannini below) perched on the edge of the town’s piazza. You don’t see many women out and about and we were certainly observed–and recognized via family resemblance–“You a Rutigliano? I knew your grandfather and his brothers and their brothers…”

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Night drives were haunted by tiny foxes with glowing eyes, tin the day the roads were dotted with vintage Cinquecentos and fields of onion flowers and wild red poppies.

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2 Responses to “~castelnuovo della daunia~”

  1. Marcella Moline says:

    Hello, I happened upon your Castelnuovo page by accident, however just wanted to say that your photo’s are just beautiful. My Dad is from Castelnuovo, in fact his home is in Via Tellini!

    We live in Sydney Australia, however had a visit there a couple of years ago, enjoyed many a cappuccino at Giovannini.

    I hope you don’t mind, however I called Dad to tell him about your beautiful photos, he was quite excited to see your photo of Via Tellini. He is also quite sure that his Grandmother was a relation of the Rutigliano famiglia. He is a Pancia, however his Mum was a Pilla and Grandmother a Stelluto. There you have it!!

    Kind regards,

  2. Michele pancia says:

    Bellissmo Castelnuovo and the food at le terrazze is fab
    thans Rutigliano

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